We made our way to Idaho to do a 6-day, 100 mile float the Middle Fork of the Salmon River, located in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. Our group consisted of 13 adventurers from the Southeast – 3 rafts, 6 kayakers and a dog. This river drops nearly 3,000 feet in elevation during the trip and changes from an alpine forest to a desert, with a deep gorge at the end called the Impassable Canyon.
I should note that Jeremy has never paddled a raft, but we rented one because it was the only way to both experience the river. He’s paddled whitewater for over 20 years and knows how to read the water, so I trusted that he would do his best to keep us safe. We were adventure-hungry parents, lucky to be able to partake in the trip. Collectively, our group had an impressive number of years of whitewater experience.
Day 1: Launch Day! Destination Fire Island Camp at mile 13.9
Fire Island Camp - do not recommend
Getting started on a multi-day river float is quite the arduous process, at least with rafts. Our captain and trip leader, Josh, helped set our expectations along the way.
My heart beat rapidly as we started the float. The river starts off very narrow and the whitewater was continuous with no real warm-up. The first major rapid was only 5 miles downstream and the line had changed completely in 2023 due to a landslide that created a massive log jam. The river created a new channel around the logs, but there were still dangerous aspects to the rapid, including sharp rocks that could puncture the raft.
The line was tight and technical, but Jeremy styled it on the oars as we ran Velvet Falls. I knew that I could relax from that point on.
We arrived at Fire Island, which offered little shade and a pitiful hot spring – hot mud sputtering out of the rocks was not appealing.
The most important task to setting up camp is finding the most picturesque spot for the groover. It is the best way to dispose of waste when traveling in a wilderness area like the Middle Fork. Over 10,000 float down the river each year, and I don’t want to imagine what camp conditions would be like without them.
Day 2: Destination Little Soldier Camp at mile 31.7
Little Soldier Camp - great gravel bar and swimming hole
Today was July 4th and our destination was Little Soldier Camp. We happily paddled away from Fire Island and enjoyed another day of continuous whitewater, including Pistol Rapid.
Little Soldier Camp was the best camp of the trip. It came with a gravel bar and swimming hole, perfect for sunning and other July 4th activities.
Day 3: Destination Hospital Bar Camp at mile 52.9
Hospital Bar Camp comes with a surf wave and hot spring
Day 3 was the least exciting in terms of whitewater due to the transition from an alpine zone to a more desert-like environment. The heat beat down on us as we stopped for lunch, but the quick detour to see the pictographs made it all worthwhile.
Hospital Bar Camp was wonderful and came with a riverside hot spring! We were little kids again, playing until it was time to go to bed.
Day 4: Destination Little Pine Camp at mile 71.2
Little Pine Camp - worth it for Johnson Point hike
The rapids were more spaced out on days 4 and 5, but apparently a bit more technical for the rafts. Our group navigated them all with ease and river life was becoming second nature.
We arrived at Little Pine Camp and enjoyed cocktails and cowboy caviar before the trek up to Johnson Point. This hike was just over a mile, but gained over 1,200 in elevation. Well worth it for the views!
Day 5: Destination Tumble Creek Camp at mile 88.9
Tumble Creek Camp - enclosed canyon walls, great star gazing
It was our last full day on the river, and our group was full of smiles. Huge rock canyons started to rise on either side, forming the Impassable Canyon and I never got tired of looking up at the massive walls.
We arrived at Tumble Creek Camp and enjoyed some swimming, cocktails, apple pie for Josh’s birthday and the highlight of the evening – a group-interpretive dance activity that summarized our favorite parts of the trip through movements performed by our very own dance instructor, Rachel!
Day 6: Destination Cache Bar at mile 99
The next morning, we packed up efficiently and shoved off the rocky shore one last time. Our group was a well-oiled machine by this point. I was sad that our adventure would be ending in 10 miles. The Impassable Canyon began to open up and the Main Salmon joined the Middle Fork, creating a strong confluence. I looked back towards the Middle Fork and smiled, grateful to have experienced the last 6 days here with this group of friends.
Having no cell phone service during the entirety of the float was incredible. What was going on with the presidential debates? Don’t know! I was completely unplugged from work and the daily grind of life.
I am forever thankful for the opportunity to experience this wild river. 100 miles of amazing scenery, crystal clear waters, hot springs, exciting whitewater and wildlife made for quality time in the outdoors. Re-entry back into the real world has been challenging, and the post-adventure depression is real. A raft purchase is in our future real soon :)
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